By Ethel G. Hofman

As Jews around the world celebrate Rosh Hashanah on Wednesday evening, October 2, sweet foods will be served to welcome 5,785 people with wishes for a sweet new year. And for the release of the hostages. And for peace.

Shani Feinstein, who lives in a suburb of Philadelphia, has vivid memories of her last Rosh Hashanah celebration in Tehran in 1979. She had just graduated from college and had a steady job.

She recalls: “The demonstrations against the Shah had started in June, but we didn’t pay much attention to them. Then, before Rosh Hashanah, crowds of angry people – men and women – poured into the streets. They became more and more intimidating. The Ayatollah made empty promises. Women had to cover up Western clothing and wear a chador – a body-length black robe – or face punishment. It was the end of freedom under the Shah’s regime.”

The Jewish community – between 70,000 and 80,000 people in total and one of the oldest in the Diaspora – kept a low profile so as not to draw attention to themselves or the holiday. Before going to the synagogue, her father Sion wrapped his tallit bag in a newspaper. Shani’s mother Tuba, who bought all the holiday food at the market, wore a chador and kept to herself. This year, Rosh Hashanah was celebrated quietly with the family.

The political atmosphere in the country became grimmer. Most Jews lived in Tehran, with smaller concentrations in Shiraz, Kermanshah and Isfahan.

Shani says that “the Shah had left and the Ayatollah had returned and replaced the government.” She told her mother that she did not want to live in such an environment. But where would she go? Communication with Israel had broken off. In February 1980, word spread that the Chabad-Lubavitch movement was ready to bring young people from Iran to New York. There were fears of another Holocaust. For two months, Shani went to the passport office every day until she got her passport. “It was the happiest day of my life,” she says.

Eventually the rest of her family came, except for one sister. Shani married and had three children.

Shani continues the Sephardic culinary traditions she grew up with, reminding her of a home she can no longer see. There are no Western-style meals in Iran. No soups, no challah, no honey or apple pie like in Ashkenazi feasts and traditions. Instead, a lavish spread of Rosh Hashanah dishes is laid out buffet-style on a long table. Symbolic foods include flatbreads, pomegranate seeds, squash, red beans, leeks and dates – for a sweet year and for the eradication of enemies.

A simple salad reflects the use of few fresh ingredients in Iran. Guests are usually served a tray of various fresh herbs such as fresh tarragon, watercress, radishes and spring onions.

For dessert there is baklava and a plate of seasonal fruits and nuts.

Shana Tovah Umetukah: A happy and sweet new year everyone!

Persian Salad (Pareve)

For 4 to 6 people

Cooking tips: •Any fresh herb can be substituted for cilantro, such as mint, watercress or parsley. •Two to three limes, depending on size, yield 1/4 cup of lime juice. •Lemons and limes yield more juice at room temperature.

Ingredients:

3 to 4 Persian cucumbers cut into 1.25 cm pieces

2 to 3 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges

1/4 Vidalia onion, finely chopped

3 tbsp chopped coriander

Dressing:

1/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice

3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

A pinch of salt and 3 to 4 turns of freshly ground black pepper

Application:

Place all ingredients in a serving bowl. Set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together the dressing ingredients. Pour over the vegetables in a bowl.

Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Rice with candied orange peel (Pareve)

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Cooking tips: •Use grated carrots from the supermarket. •Sliced ​​orange peel from Sadaf company is available online from Amazon. If you are making the peel at home, make sure that no white skin is left on the peel.

Ingredients:

1 cup grated orange peel

4 cups water, divided

1 cup carrots, cut into thin strips

2 tbsp vegetable oil

1 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon saffron dissolved in 2 tablespoons hot water

3 to 4 cups hot cooked rice

Application:

Place orange zest and 3 cups water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat. Cook for 10 minutes. Drain. Rinse with cold water and set aside.

In a small skillet, fry the carrots in oil over medium heat for 5 minutes. Set aside. In a separate saucepan, add the orange zest, carrots, sugar and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil over high heat.

Reduce heat. Simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the saffron. Transfer to a bowl. Drizzle this mixture over the rice and serve.

Chicken with pomegranate paste (meat)

For 4 to 6 people

Cooking tips: •Pomegranate molasses is a Middle Eastern spice made from boiled down pomegranate juice. It is available online from Sadaf. •Turmeric is a flowering plant in the ginger family that is ground and used as a spice.

Ingredients:

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon turmeric

1/2 tsp salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

1 large (4 to 5 pounds) chicken, cut into 8 pieces

1/4 cup pomegranate molasses dissolved in 3/4 cup warm water

10 pitted plums

8 pitted dates

1/4 cup honey

Pomegranate seeds and fresh parsley (optional)

Application:

In a large skillet, fry the onion in oil over medium-high heat until golden brown. Add the turmeric, salt and pepper. Add the chicken and fry for 5 minutes on each side.

Add dissolved pomegranate molasses, prunes, dates and honey. Cover and cook over medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes.

Reduce the heat, cover the pot and let the whole thing cook for another 30 to 40 minutes.

Arrange the chicken pieces on a platter. Drizzle the sauce over them. If using, garnish with pomegranate seeds and parsley.

Roast stuffed chicken (meat)

For 4 to 6 people

Cooking tips: • Replace 3 garlic cloves with 1.5 teaspoons of minced garlic from the bottle. • If you need extra stuffing, wrap it in aluminum foil and bake it with the poultry.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup water

7 to 8 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1/2 cup basmati rice

1 large onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

5 dried apricots, chopped

5 pitted plums, chopped

2 tbsp raisins

3/4 cup fresh mixed herbs such as chopped parsley, dill, cilantro

1-1/2 teaspoons turmeric

1/2 teaspoon saffron dissolved in 2 tablespoons hot water

1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper

1 (4 to 5 pounds) roast chicken

1 tbsp paprika

Parsley sprigs for garnishing

Application:

In a medium saucepan, bring 1/2 cup water and 2 tablespoons oil to a boil. Rinse the rice in cold water, drain, and add to the boiling water. Cover and simmer until the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes, and the rice will be half cooked.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a medium skillet, saute onion and garlic in 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat until onion begins to brown. In a large bowl, combine rice, onion, garlic, dried fruit and herbs, turmeric, salt and pepper. Stuff the chicken cavity with the mixture. Close the chicken by sewing or tying.

Brush the poultry with the remaining olive oil. Sprinkle with paprika. Roast in the preheated oven for 1 hour or until clear juices run out when you pierce the thigh.

Place on a plate and garnish with parsley.

Persian Baklava (Pareve)

Makes 18 to 20 pieces

Cooking tips: •Traditionally, filo pastry is used. Shani’s shortcut: Pepperidge Farm puff pastry.

•Ground almonds, cardamom and rose water can be bought from a spice shop.

INGREDIENTS

For the syrup: 2 cups sugar, 1 cup water, 6 tablespoons rose water

For the filling: 2-1/2 cups ground almonds, 1-1/2 cups powdered sugar, 3 tablespoons ground cardamom

1 (17-ounce) package puff pastry, thawed

3/4 cup margarine, melted

ground pistachios (optional)

Application: Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare syrup: Combine sugar and water in a medium saucepan. Stir until sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the rose water. Set aside.

Prepare the filling: Mix almonds, sugar and cardamom in a bowl. Set aside.

To assemble: Place one sheet of dough on a rimmed baking sheet. Spread it generously with melted margarine. Sprinkle the almond filling over it and spread it evenly to cover. Place a second sheet of dough on top. Spread with the remaining melted margarine. Using a sharp knife, cut the baklava into small squares. Bake in the preheated oven for 20 to 25 minutes. If it is not golden brown, place it under the broiler for 3 minutes. Watch it closely! Remove from the grill or oven. Pour the syrup over it. Garnish with ground pistachios. Arrange on a platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.