Scandinavian style codes are inimitable and instantly recognizable due to their minimalistic yet expressive nature. Characterized by bold prints, fresh linens and color blocking, Copenhagen’s fashion trends have been widely adopted by the internet and fashion girls worldwide. Aside from putting unexpected combinations and spirited color palettes on the map, the Copenhagen fashion scene has also created a greater awareness of sustainability practices within the industry.
In 2020, Copenhagen Fashion Week introduced a set of standards that all participating brands must adhere to – these standards were later updated in March 2024 – and include maintaining an officially approved sustainability strategy, circular design principles and collections made from at least 60 percent certified or leftover stock, among other social standards and measures to reduce single-use items and packaging.
“I am relieved that our fashion week represents the beauty of the industry and supports emerging brands. Even as a small or medium-sized company, you have to think about these things because you have the ability to inspire the big players and brands out there. We are not perfect, but we are trying to build a healthier relationship with fashion,” said Cecilie Thorsmark, CEO of CPHFW.
Hypebae took to the streets and runways during CPHFW to take in the sights of the season – this Spring/Summer 25 edition brought flowing skirts, dynamic patterns and adaptable, grungy streetwear, along with some forward-thinking sustainable elements that have the potential to really change the game.
Deadwood Studios’ fashion show put guests in a rock show, proving that indie sleaze is here to stay. But what was perhaps more striking than the brand’s ability to transform its recognizably cool aesthetic into everyday, wearable elements was its use of consciously chosen materials. The brand’s creative minds, Carl Ollson and Felix von Bahder, are always breathing new life into otherwise overlooked materials – conjuring up new things from old. Upcycled leather and discarded textiles graced the runway this season in the form of motorcycle jackets and nostalgic T-shirts, expressing an inventive attitude towards the use of textiles.
In Copenhagen’s Opera Park, Marimekko brought a whimsical explosion of color to the runway (as always). The SS25 collection, “The Anatomy of Flowers,” reinterpreted the signature floral prints the brand is known for, showing a more abstract or conceptual approach to flowers. A new silhouette, chic polo dresses, also showed the brand’s sporty side. Although new elements appeared, Marimekko stayed true to its eco-conscious roots, with many garments made from certified organic cotton and leftover fabrics turned into cute hair ties and keychain straps.
Taking “office siren” to a new level, Baum und Pferdgarten presented a collection of corporate-core-inspired pieces that combined everyday, functional silhouettes with sporty elements—including pinstripes, numbered jerseys, and athletic sets. While the collection’s practical yet undeniably chic features initially caught viewers’ attention, the collection’s environmental aspects made the looks more than meets the eye. Over 50 percent of the fibers in the featured materials came from recycled, organic, or eco-certified sources, demonstrating that a piece can still possess that “cool factor” without compromising environmental consciousness.
With CPHFW’s sustainability requirements, all other fashion shows and presentations were also aligned with this forward-thinking approach. Meanwhile, at the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, Scandinavian brands and international names came together to showcase their latest offerings, many of which included innovative aspects.
Material innovation – probably one of the predominant themes during CIFF and CPHFW SS25 – continued with other brands present at the fashion fair, including International Citizen, a Berlin-based luxury ready-to-wear brand that incorporated next-generation post-consumer materials in its latest collection, from recycled nylon to sustainable certified wool. Organic Basics, a Danish activewear brand that actually makes athleisure look cute, also pushed the boundaries of materiality. The brand presented workout sets, sports bras and more made from wood-based fabrics: TENCEL™ Lyocell and LENZING™ ECOVERO™. Danish knitwear brand DawnxDare presented some hand-knitted, one-of-a-kind pieces made from leftover yarn from other garments.
Delving into some of these cross-border elements of Copenhagen Fashion Week gives the entire industry an optimistic view of the future – a future where fashion and environmental protection can coexist harmoniously. Looking ahead to the international seasons to come, the hope is that these advances will radiate far beyond the Scandinavian region.
