close
close

Mediterranean gastronomy is booming in the Bay Area


Mediterranean gastronomy is booming in the Bay Area

Maybe you have found yourself I recently ate a meal surrounded by colorful prints, large plants, intricate wood paneling, and lighting fixtures designed with a “bigger is better” theme—and chances are the menu and concept was Italian, Greek, Spanish, or somewhere in between. You just can’t ignore the Mediterranean restaurant wave in the Bay Area that’s making dining out louder, bolder, and a whole lot more fun.

The nationwide trend manifested itself around 2022 with the national opening of restaurants like the lavish Lavo Ristorante in LA and TableOne Hospitality’s Bar Sprezzatura in SF. The following year, spots like the big, ambitious Bad Roman in NYC and Corzetti by Adriano Paganini’s back of the house team in Union Square followed. Both Bar Sprezzatura and Corzetti feature the hallmarks of the genre—spacious floor plans and designs meant to dazzle and delight (think: tall, streetlamp-like light fixtures, bold lemon-patterned wallpaper, and colorful booths). On the menus, California-Italian dishes and spritz cocktails evoke eternal summer. From there, the plethora of Mediterranean restaurants sharing the same maximalist sensibility and vibrant cuisine has only spread further throughout the Bay Area. They include: Rollati Ristorante and Suspiro in San Jose, Che Fico Parco Menlo in Menlo Park and Alora on the Embarcadero in San Francisco – all of which have opened in the last 10 months. They are part of a Mediterranean movement in Bay Area dining that aims to transport diners – at least for a meal – to warmer, drier climes.

The walls inside Corzetti are covered with lemon-patterned wallpaper.

Corzetti relies on citrus colors with its wallpaper with a bold lemon print.
Michelle Min

“There’s something inherently captivating about the Mediterranean experience,” says Alora owner Anu Bhambri, who highlights the vibrant decor, “stunning” coastal views and “lively music that transports you to another world.” Alora, she says, wants to bring that magic to San Francisco. Given that the bay is comparable to the Amalfi Coast, the shore and views are already there, so all that was left was to create “elegant interiors and a dynamic atmosphere.” Alora feels decidedly escapist, with a self-described “coastal Mediterranean” menu that mixes tzatziki octopus with spicy beef and lamb kebabs.

Across the bay, Suspiro draws inspiration from Peru and Spain. The space is full of plants, rough textures and woven lampshades. The food is a parade of paella, ceviche, sardines and fragrant cheese, familiar to anyone who has spent a week in Madrid or Seville.

There is often live music and a speakeasy completes the experience. “We put a lot of thought into how to create a vibrant and inviting atmosphere, with open, airy spaces, soft colors, velvety accents, lush greenery and natural light, that makes our guests feel welcome and relaxed,” says Eduardo Rallo, chairman and founder of parent company Buen Rallo Group. According to Rallo, there is increased interest in the big, bold Mediterranean genre and its unique atmosphere because guests are “looking for culinary experiences that are more than just good food and beautiful decor.”

A piece of dessert at the Mediterranean restaurant Alora in San Francisco.

Pistachios, popular throughout the Mediterranean, adorn the dessert at Alora in SF.
Neetu Laddha

In fact, the modern Mediterranean restaurant is an entire atmosphere. Some may see it as a celebratory departure from the austere design patterns of yesteryear, a response to COVID isolation, or perhaps part of the larger, cross-generational appeal to the kind of visual cornucopia seen in the fabulously Sicilian season 2 of the HBO series. The White Lotus. “Gen Z lives freely and has definitely brought the maximalism push with it,” comments Hanna Collins, founder and head designer of ROY Design, the firm that developed the look for Corzetti. Of course, the show’s aesthetic – wild ceramics, big prints, gold accents and contrasting textures – is ubiquitous when looking at the past year’s trendy openings.

It doesn’t hurt that San Francisco residents, who rarely have the opportunity, real Summers – inevitably gravitate towards sun-drenched getaways. “People crave that intense, joyful experience,” says Bhambri, referring to her own “enchanting” Mediterranean holidays over the years.

Patric Yumul, CEO of TableOne Hospitality, shares this sentiment when it comes to Bar Sprezzatura: “The intention behind the design was to create an oasis in the heart of the city that serves as a portal to another world,” he says. “We really wanted to make guests feel like they had been transported to Venice, stepping off a Riva boat or gondola into a glamorous bar rich in hospitality and charm.” How could anyone say no to that?

The terrace at Che Fico is equipped with green benches and wicker chairs.

The Mediterranean atmosphere is alive on the terrace of Che Fico Parko Menlo.
Douglas Friedman

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *