The recent launch of Amtrak’s Borealis, a second train between St. Paul and Chicago, recalled the golden age of rail travel in the Midwest in the 1950s – when rival giants Hiawatha and Zephyr raced through the Mississippi Valley at top speeds of over 100 miles per hour.
I was excited, but also concerned that Amtrak’s 21st century record would see the existing Empire Builder train run more than two hours late. But there were adventures and history to be discovered ahead, and I had no time to sit idle.
It turns out that the new Borealis, traveling at 54 mph, averages only 27 minutes late on its entire trip to Chicago and 43 minutes late on the return trip. That was enough encouragement to embark on two very fun weekend trips: to Red Wing, Minnesota, and La Crosse, Wisconsin.
In June, I tested the new service with a day trip from St. Paul’s Union Depot to Red Wing. My round-trip fare was $18. On weekends, parking at Union Depot is a bargain at $4 per day. Borealis was on time both ways. The train itself isn’t new, but the leather seats and Wi-Fi were new to me.
Red Wing is perfect for a Borealis day trip because it’s very walkable and the daily 11:05am departure from St. Paul and 12:35pm arrival allow five hours to explore. There’s plenty of history within three blocks of the Red Wing station. Our main destinations were the iconic St. James Hotel and the majestic Sheldon Theater, institutions enriched by the legacy of two pioneering women.
The Sheldon grew out of an $83,000 trust given to the city by businessman Theodore B. Sheldon in 1900. His widow, Annie, spearheaded the project to create a state-of-the-art entertainment center. The Renaissance-style building was a masterpiece of sculpture, decorative painting and arches, earning it the nickname “Jewel Box.”
The theater is filled with fascinating Masonic symbolism. Annie Sheldon’s love of Roman and Greek gilded hearts, angels, peacocks and eagles is evident in every corner of the four-story hall. Grab a self-guided tour booklet to unravel the mystery. We toured the public areas for free by arriving during box office hours: 1:00 p.m.-5:30 p.m. Wednesday through Friday and 12:30 p.m.-4:00 p.m. Saturday. Call ahead to make sure there isn’t a theater rehearsal on the day you visit (1-651-388-8700).
In 1875, Red Wing was the wheat trading capital of the world. Eleven civic-minded businessmen joined forces to build a luxury hotel to match. Architect Edward Bassford provided the solution with the four-story Italianate St. James. Its Victorian accents, furniture and decoration are beautifully preserved.
