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Chicago’s best dishes, according to a food critic


Chicago’s best dishes, according to a food critic

The hot dog bar loomed in all its glory just outside Section 218 of Wrigley Field. It was Thursday, and the Democratic National Convention’s Volunteer Appreciation Rally was kicking off a week of national politics in Chicago. I stood behind a few volunteers who were putting toppings on their foil-wrapped hot dogs.

Next to the appropriate side dishes – mustard, pickles, radioactive relish, peppers, onions, celery salt and tomatoes – there were ketchup dispensers, perhaps as a gesture of peace.

“Oh, I don’t care, I like ketchup,” said one, pumping a few pumps into her plain hot dog.

The food wasn’t the attraction here. Lieutenant Governor Julianna Stratton and Governor JB Pritzker gave a series of short speeches thanking the volunteers and praising the turnout of 32,000 (more than double the 12,000 requested) while accompanied by boisterous cheers and spontaneous shouts of “JB! JB!” Attendees seemed more interested in where they could get one of those coveted DNC volunteer T-shirts than in snagging a hot dog.

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There were plenty of hot dogs at the volunteer party to open the Democratic National Convention on August 15, 2024.

As tens of thousands of Democratic delegates, volunteers, protesters and media from all 50 states descend on the city for the week-long convention, I’ve been thinking about food. Most will only scratch the surface of the bounty of this world-class food city, and so far there is ample evidence of some of the usual suspects. The hot dogs. The iconic Nuts at Clark’s Caramel and cheese popcorn while walking through McCormick Place to meetings. There will also be Eli’s Cheesecake in abundance Welcome parties and off-site conference events this week, in the form of square inches and slices. About 2,600 kg of them, Eli’s PR director Maureen Schulman told me.

Attendees of Saturday’s Media Welcome Party will be better catered for than DNC volunteers, thanks to Paramount Group’s food directors. The event will feature appetizers from a variety of areas, including Bakery Braun (fingers crossed for the buttery caramel cake), Antique Taco in Bridgeport and Wicker Park, Sanders BBQ Supply Co. in Beverly, Demera Restaurant in Uptown and Saigon Sisters in Fulton Market.

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A guide for politicians and political enthusiasts who flock to the city from across the country for this event.

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Yes, Chicago is always a food city. But in the summer, there is an especially wide selection of handheld devices, frozen delicacies and seasonal specialties.

Chicago Breakfast Sandwiches

Over hot dogs, I asked Olayinka Hassan, a DNC volunteer and South Loop resident, where she would send first-time visitors to eat. “Giordanos, Lou Malnati’s – for deep dish, yes, but sometimes I want a thin crust,” she said. A volunteer next to her chimed in, “It’s different than the New York style because they cut it into squares.”

Hassan then suggested the visitors have lunch at Walnut Room at Macy’s, where she used to be a manager, and look at the Station L Restaurant where they must try the macaroni and cheese and lamb chops. Their edible Chicago was not all, it also included Mastro’s Steakhouse in the river North, Yinkres Nigerian Restaurant in Rogers Park, The Dearborn And kindling City center and mini chain Chicago Waffles (which has a location in the West Loop near the United Center).

Volunteer Mary M., a vegetarian from the western suburbs, supported Poke Poke (with locations in Downtown and the West Loop) for vegetarian ramen and Thai Restaurant in Streeterville for Thai cuisine.

“Any place with good vegetarian food, really; I’m not looking for luxury,” she said, adding that there are plenty of such options in the city.

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The Lula Café has been a fixture at Logan Square since 1999.

Pat Nabong/Chicago Sun-Times

Would any of them actually venture down Devon Avenue to buy vegetarian street food snacks? Uru Swati, I was wondering? Or feast on earthly delights in a gourmet restaurant Indienne in River North or the OG farm-to-table temple in Logan Square, Lula Cafe? While we’re on the subject of Thai, why not take a look Thai Tuk-Tuk in Lakeview for fiery egg curry with lots of shellfish? Or if they are looking for the latest trend, I will send them to #12 of 21 places to eat in San Pedro in Pilsen for amazing hot and cold mariscos and a festive atmosphere.

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Michelada oysters fit the seafood theme at Mariscos San Pedro in Pilsen’s Thalia Hall.

New Chicago visitors (and likely fans of “The bear,”) flock without exception to Al’s beef, Restaurant Portillo or Luke for a classic Italian beef sandwich marinated in jus and oily peppers. But I would also encourage you to get an exceptional Italian sandwich at JP Graziano in the West Loop or take Western Avenue to Lawrence Ave. at Lincoln Square for a Banh Mi with crispy edges, ham, pressed sausage and pate at Nhu Lan Bakery.

Since many will eat late, I would send them to the first cocktail bar in Chinatown, Nine Bar (open until midnight on weekdays and 1 a.m. on weekends), which serves great dumplings and a filling fried pork “McKatsu” sandwich. If you stick to the West Loop, you can visit the underground Izakaya at Momotaro sparkles with atmospheric atmosphere, excellent sashimi and charcoal-fried meat until 11 p.m.

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Nine Bar in Chinatown serves dumplings and cocktails until midnight on weekdays.

Actually great There are numerous options for eating late into the night throughout the city, many of them with happy hour offers after work (this list includes The Ramova, location of some offsite parties). With that in mind, instead of a deep dish, perhaps they could consider a pan pizza with caramelized edges, which became famous at Pequods — which is open until 2 a.m. every day, except Sundays, when it closes at midnight.

The Ramova Grill in the Ramova Theater

The Ramova Grill has reopened and is located next to a revitalized concert hall that will host some political events during the week of the Democratic National Convention.

Back at Wrigley, my conversation with Hassan inevitably came back to the classics. I asked her what she had put on her hot dog and she immediately replied, “What would You put on?”

I rattled off the components of a neatly pulled hot dog while she nodded in agreement.

I asked her if she had noticed the ketchup dispensers and she gave me an exasperated look.

Maggie Hennessy is a Chicago-based food and drink writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times, Bon Appetit, and Food & Wine. Follow her on Instagram.

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