Welcome to Ask EaterA Eater Philly column Here, site editor Ernest Owens answers questions from readers on all things Philly food (hype around certain dishes, food trends, restaurant etiquette questions, food influencer trends, issues with working in service, and more). Have a question for him? Send your question to [email protected] with the subject line “Ask Eater”.
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Dear AskEater,
As summer was winding down, I got caught up in the hype over a sandwich that everyone had been raving about for the past month. Every year, this place does a ton of mass marketing and social media advertising for this particular sandwich, and after waiting for it in the sweltering heat, it was good, but not great.
I’m not sure if I’m a grouch or a killjoy, but I think this place makes enough money that people don’t have to go through so much trouble over a damn sandwich. Is it really worth waiting in long lines for any meal, or am I a nutcase?
Thanks,
A neutral Nancy
Dear neutral Nancy,
First of all, your name inspired me to answer your question.
I’m sick of waiting in long lines for a single piece of food – be it a cheesesteak, a scoop of ice cream, or a BLT. I’ve always found the over-commercialization of food – something that should be a basic need for everyone – embarrassing, especially in this economy. Places that are constantly concerned with having long lines of customers waiting for something they’re selling seem to create a logistical nightmare rather than a true show of force.
But then again, there is a market (and an audience) for this kind of hype – and if it’s not for you, stay away.
There are people for whom certain foods are a novelty—as if they were a ticket to a movie they haven’t seen yet. The fetish of standing in long lines in anticipation, being the first to eat whatever is trending, and posting it for all to see is a thing. If it’s not your thing, avoid the trap—but understand that it’s not going away anytime soon, because capitalism is still at the top of the menu.
Serious
Dear AskEater,
My favorite restaurant is obsessed with doing these “chef takeovers” and pop-ups to support his friends in the industry. Personally, I’ve found the food hasn’t gotten as good with all of these changes, and it seems to be trending with a lot of restaurants in town right now. It seems like a lot of excellent places are doing things like this these days, and it feels like overkill.
What’s going on here? How do I tell my favorite restaurant that we want YOUR food and ONLY YOUR food?
Thanks,
A simple eater
Dear A Simple Eater,
I hear you loud and clear. But I would like to kindly encourage you to read the mood in the room right now.
The restaurant industry is undoubtedly in crisis. The effects of the pandemic have not yet disappeared, leading to mass closures that are not going to end anytime soon. Simply opening a restaurant out of the blue is a privilege that many cannot afford right now. So when established restaurateurs open their doors to up-and-coming chefs to try out their ideas and share their cuisine, it is a fair price that we as loyal guests should be willing to pay.
Pop-ups and chef takeovers have been a thing in the industry for years, but I think the aftermath of the pandemic has led to a noticeable uptick as it’s become riskier for people to open a new restaurant. Collaboration is essential to the survival of our city’s dining scene. Some of these will make sense, others will be a failure from the start.
Ideally, restaurants should announce in advance that a takeover is happening (most usually do), and you should always do your research in advance to avoid them if they continue to not interest you. In other words, be a little more forgiving towards these chefs and restaurants. Provide feedback as a guest, but also be open to seeing how the industry evolves. Welcome to our new normal as a guest.
Serious
Dear AskEater,
I recently had the uncomfortable feeling that a bar I’ve been going to for ages is enforcing an unnecessary dress code that is just plain silly. It’s very vague and weird. You’re not allowed to wear boots and hats anymore and no “inappropriate” clothing is allowed. What does that even mean? I don’t want to read more into it than it is, but it feels like borderline discrimination.
How do I address this with them without feeling like I’m part of the woke mob?
Thanks,
I just want to drink my beer in peace
Dear I just want to drink my beer in peace,
In short, raising concerns about possible discrimination does not make you part of the woke mob, but simply a person who shows humanity.
Now to this strange dress code.
Bars and restaurants that try to enforce such policies often fail because they are rarely implemented consistently, leading to concerns about discrimination. I’m sure they have a reasoning behind this, but it probably doesn’t justify the outcome. I recommend letting management know how you feel, and if other patrons of the bar have similar thoughts, encourage them to voice their opinions as well.
Customers’ negative reaction to new policies can cause owners to rethink their plans more quickly than with other tactics. Never underestimate the power of the “frequent customer crowd.”
Serious
