Turn on the brass bands and gather for schnitzel sandwiches, ice-cold pilsner and sausage, because the beer garden at Tisza Bistro in Healdsburg is open.
Although it’s just a handful of sturdy wooden tables, bistro chairs under twinkling lights, and pennants from Weihenstephan (Germany’s oldest brewery), there’s Munich in the air at chef Krisztian Karkus’ Hungarian-German restaurant.
“We’re moving a little more toward German food. People are really recognizing that,” Karkus said of the newly introduced beer garden menu.
The outdoor area is open Thursdays, Fridays, Sundays and Mondays from noon to 5 p.m. Karkus and his wife/co-owner Alena Rebick also have a booth at the Healdsburg Farmers’ Market on Saturdays.
Even on a quiet Monday afternoon, the small garden is bustling with customers. Here, Karkus’s popular pork schnitzel is served sandwiched between a creamy cucumber-stuffed pretzel bun and a hefty helping of tart cranberry jam ($18). It’s messy through and through, and that’s exactly what Karkus is all about: “I didn’t want it to look too perfect.” Add a light summer salad and a fluffy Spaten Lager ($9), and you’re ready for a marathon-long “digestive walk” (or digestive walk) through the Dry Creek Valley. Or at least head to Noble Folk in downtown Healdsburg for ice cream.
The house-made bratwurst ($18) is a must-try, even if you’re not a huge sausage fan. Karkus’s fried pork sausage puts the sausages at a backyard barbecue to shame. In fact, I’ve never had a softer, milder bratwurst, which pairs perfectly with house-made sauerkraut and soft potato dumplings. It’s served with a side of sourdough-fermented “sun cucumbers,” an Eastern European pickling method that uses sun, salt, water and a slice of bread (not vinegar) to create a tart but not aggressive seasoning.
Like a good lager or kölsch, nothing on Karkus’ menu needs to hit your taste buds to make an impression. However, beware the mustard served with the bratwursts. It will flood your sinuses faster than a rainstorm in the desert.
I’m also a fan of the currywurst ($18), which is the same bratwurst, cut into chunks and placed over beer-battered fries and caramelized onions with curry ketchup. This classic German street food can easily hold its own against darker beers or even an IPA. The beer garden lives up to its name, offering five German beers on tap, as well as cans of Stiegl Radler (grapefruit juice and lager) and malty Korbinian.
Of course, you have to order the fresh pretzels ($6), soft and chewy rolls of dough with thick grains of coarse salt. Karkus whispers aside, “You never put mustard on pretzels.” He seems almost insulted that someone would suggest such a thing. He does point out, however, that in the beer garden they are served with whole-grain mustard and a ramekin of softened butter – the preferred condiment.
Other options on the menu include a cheeseburger ($20), grilled ham and cheese on sourdough ($17) or a simple chicken club ($19). There’s also an iceberg lettuce ($16), fries in porcini sauce ($9) and German-style pretzel-crusted cheesecake ($10). The smoked salmon latkes ($17) from the dinner menu are also a hit.
The new beer garden is a quiet retreat and a nice place where you’ll likely overhear local gossip (I heard a bakery in Healdsburg is expanding nearby), or enjoy a solitary moment with your thoughts and a cold beer. Either way, cheers to Tisza Bistro’s tasty new outdoor offerings. Stay tuned for more details on Tisza’s official Oktoberfest plans this fall.
165 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, 707-291-5193, tiszabistro.com
