SMYRNA, Maine – For the Amish cooperative families who work and grow for the Back 40 Farm Market on Route 2 just past Pioneer Place in Smyrna, it is open day and night, from dawn to dusk.
“It is an intense summer because the growing season is short and we have to do a lot in a short time to keep the goods fresh here,” says Jonas Esch, one of the three store managers.
Reminiscent of traditional Victorian gardens filled with dark red tomatoes, crisp bright greens and sprouting melons, this Amish co-op began in 1997 as a farm stand on a porch down the street from its current location.
As demand for their products grew, they brought in more growers from the Smyrna Amish community, and today it is a 12-family retail store offering freshly picked fruit daily.
“We work together and market our products together,” he said. “We have a much wider selection than before.”
The market features fresh picked produce, locally made pickles, grass fed beef, pastured chicken, pastured pork, raw milk, butter, cheese, yogurt, kefir, jams and jellies, baked goods, baskets, leather products, fresh picked and pick-your-own flowers and more.
They’re hosting an open house at the farmers market on Aug. 30 and 31 with free handmade vanilla ice cream with toppings, as well as specials in the store. They’ll also be selling grass-fed beef burgers, Esch said.
The Smyrna Amish community includes about 26 families, and in addition to the Back 40 Farm Market, they operate several other businesses, including a general store and a greenhouse, in this Aroostook County town of 420 people.
Last spring, the cooperative’s members built the timber-framed building for the farmers market and expanded their new location, and since then they’ve continued to explore new and unusual offerings.
“We hope to expand our offering to include other fruit and vegetable specialties. We learn to grow more and more things every year,” said Esch. “These can be things like coriander or pak choy, things that you can’t find everywhere.”
Some of their more unique assortments include jalapeno cheddar bread, kohlrabi, hot waxed Hungarian peppers, spicy cucumbers, heirloom tomatoes, FROG jam (fig, raspberry, orange and grape), monster cookies, Buggy Whip sharp cheddar artisan cheese, and 12-pound bags of beans and other canning products.
Not to mention the competitive prices, like large zucchini for $1 a piece, handmade leather dog collars for $11.25, and freshly baked bread for $4 to $6.
The baked goods are made on site and baked in a commercial wood-fired oven.
A large walk-in “ice box” provides cooling for certain items.
Each winter they collect ice from ponds or rinks designated for ice production. Once the ice is about 30cm thick, they cut it into blocks using specially made saws. There is a large insulated room with 60cm of insulation and a 30cm thick door.
“It’s the most economical way to cool,” said Esch. “It also keeps our milk cold.”
On Tuesday morning, the store was packed with shoppers buying melons, beans, baskets, baked goods and cut flowers, and by 10:30 a.m. the jalapeno bread was already sold out.
The meat is processed at their USDA slaughterhouse in Smyrna and stored in a propane freezer.
Every morning, the farming families bring their products to the market and take turns working as sellers, while the three managers Esch, Wilson Hilty and Michael Auker ensure a steady supply and smooth operations.
This year they are considering keeping the store open year-round, although in previous years it was open as a farm stand until November, Esch said.
“We are working hard to keep as many fresh products available as possible for as long as possible,” said Esch. “We are receiving great support and interest from local people.”
The Back 40 Farm Market is open Monday through Friday (closed Thursday) from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
