An hour earlier, my wife and I had been discussing where to go for dinner. I didn’t feel like pizza, burgers or sushi. She didn’t feel like going downtown or Over-the-Rhine on a Friday night. “How about The Birch?” Yes, The Birch! The Birch has everything! Salads and soups and pasta and burgers. A great cocktail and wine list. And a nice grilled cheese for our daughter too.

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I chose The Birch not just for the food, but to show my support for the restaurant, which recently reopened after a fire destroyed part of the historic building last November. Most of the staff is back, including chef Aaron Owen, who has a knack for preparing fresh produce—some of it from nearby Turner Farm in Indian Hill—in a way that never compromises flavor. (Even the little bowl of snap peas and carrots that came with my daughter’s grilled cheese was exceptional.)

Along with a fantastic Turner Farm tomato salad that Amy and I shared, I ordered the spring chicken ($30) and a glass of rosé. The chicken is a perfect restaurant dish. Familiar but elevated. Filling but not overwhelming. A juicy chicken thigh quarter is served with oyster mushrooms, sliced ​​cauliflower, crisp asparagus and onions in a buttery velouté herb sauce. Along with the rosé, it not only hit the spot, but also confirmed to me that we had made a wise choice. And that after a 10-month absence, The Birch is back and better than ever.