“God had a plan for me and I am very, very grateful. I love seeing people enjoy our food and the love and support from the community has been really great.”
— Loretta McClennon, owner of Momma Lo’s BBQ

From Memorial Day weekend through well past Labor Day, countless Americans fire up the briquettes and indulge their taste buds with communal feasts centered around grilled chicken, pulled pork and barbecued ribs. But for many, the time, patience and skill required to achieve the right flavor and tenderness can be a little daunting. If you’re one of the many — or looking for great food that’s ready without much fuss — Momma Lo’s BBQ in Great Barrington is here to help.

The “framework” of the American barbecue

According to FOOD52 writer Arlyn Osborne in “A Brief History of the American Cookout,” the origins of American barbecue date back to the late 15th century, when Spanish explorers landed in the Caribbean, “where they encountered an indigenous tribe called the Taíno, who cooked slowly on wooden frames.” On their journey north, they took the new cooking technique (called “barbacoa,” which later became “barbecue”) with them.

Osborne goes on to explain that this custom took root in the American South in the early 19th century and quickly spread to other parts of the country. While many cultures are known for their barbecue traditions, Southern-style barbecue – characterized by marinating meat in savory spices and sweet sauces and slow cooking over smoke and flames – has taken on a life of its own as an American pastime, custom, and way of gathering and celebrating holidays and special occasions with family and friends.

Landing in a hidden corner of GB in 2022

McClennon has worked in the restaurant industry since she was 12. “I always wanted to open a business,” she says. For the backstory of how Momma Lo’s BBQ came to be – first in the parking lot outside Random Harvest and Zinnia’s Dinette in Craryville, New York, and later in the Triplex Plaza in Great Barrington – see EM Marcus’ March 2022 Business Monday Spotlight.

From the beginning, McClennon and her sons (Attarilm Kizr Aldin “AT” McClennon and Ahmed Zaki Aldin “Buddha” McClennon) did everything themselves, as did McClennon’s mother and grandmother. “My mother had a barbecue restaurant. She also had 10 children (six girls and four boys), and I made them breakfast every day growing up,” McClennon explains. “We were sharecroppers back then, so we would get up at four or five every morning to pick blackberries, make ice cream, get eggs or can vegetables. The only thing I didn’t like was killing the animals.”

The growth of the company – and the challenges of the third year

Contrasting with its slow-cooked flavor, Momma Lo’s BBQ has quickly built a customer base and connected with the community since opening two and a half years ago. It’s now known throughout Berkshire and Columbia Counties – with long lines out the door and loyal fans from near and far, including celebrities, fellow restauranteurs and customers who have followed Momma’s cooking from Craryville to Great Barrington.

“There were Latin, Asian and American places in Barrington, but nothing like Momma Lo’s,” McClennon points out. “That day on the side of the road when Richard Stanley first tried our brisket and told me, ‘We need you in Great Barrington!’ is what sparked all of this.” Noting that they have a lot more overhead in Great Barrington than at their previous location, where they served under a tent, she admits, “I’m very grateful to be here.”

Still, running the company in its third year hasn’t been without its challenges. Like many other businesses in Great Barrington, McClennon experienced a slight decline this year due to a combination of factors (inflation, weekend weather, general anxiety about the economy and the upcoming election, etc.).

The biggest challenge was having half of her lung removed in January. McClennon calls it a “minor setback”: “I had pain in my arm, but it took a while to figure out what was wrong. A doctor at Sharon Hospital (Connecticut) discovered a tumor in my lung. Later, my follow-up doctor in Pittsfield told me, ‘That pain in your arm saved your life.'”

While she was in the hospital and then recovering at home, her sons ran the business – Buddha handled the meat and AT handled all the sides. “When I was in the hospital, the community really helped,” McClennon says. She started a Go Fund Me page and people responded, raising $10,000 to help her pay for mounting medical bills and restock the restaurant’s shelves. Now, nearing the end of their third summer season, Momma Lo’s BBQ – and its eponymous owner – are back in full swing.

Relationship-based, community-focused

Sitting briefly with McClennon outside her shop, you get a glimpse of the many people who consider her a friend, if not family. “Hey, baby” and “Hi, honey” accompany her hugs and warm greetings to people who walk by as we talk. In addition to building her customer base, the Great Barrington location has helped her forge partnerships with other establishments (including Baba Louie’s, GB Eats, Azteca and Gorham and Norton) that feature her barbecue on their menus.

Momma Lo’s also serves the community in many other ways. In addition to the countless customers they serve, there are the groups they feed through their catering business (about 40 percent of their total revenue). They have catered events for Danny Meyer, founder and owner of Union Square Hospitality Group and Shake Shack restaurants, and Mark Leavitt, co-founder of EHI (Enlightened Hospitality Investments), as well as the Norman Rockwell Museum and numerous other companies. “I work a lot with Gwen VanSant (founder and CEO of Multicultural BRIDGE), and that has led us to other organizations,” notes McClennon. Momma Lo’s also donates auction items to local fundraisers (including Multicultural BRIDGE, Berkshire South Regional Community Center, and Monument Mountain High School).

Giving something back – now and in the future

Their website states, “We believe Momma Lo’s BBQ is more than just a restaurant – it’s a part of the community. That’s why we want to give back to the people who have supported us over the years. From sponsoring local events to donating to charities, we’re always looking for ways to make a positive impact on the community we call home.”

Momma Lo’s also provides food to a growing number of homeless people. “There are a lot of homeless people out there who need food. We do what we can,” McClennon says. “I tell them, ‘Don’t worry. I’ll give it to you.’ People bless me so I can bless others.”

What does McClennon want to do next? First, she wants to set up a food truck to host her barbecue on the road – if she can get the funding sorted. But more importantly, she wants to open a shelter, with a section for battered women and a section for battered men (a shelter like the Grace Smith House in Millerton, which took her and her sons in when they needed help). I could serve as a cook and a counselor.”

She’s putting those dreams on the slow cooker for now, but she’ll keep cooking. Given her faith and the path she’s taken so far, it’s easy to imagine she’ll make those dreams a reality.