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Experience Istanbul’s gastronomy scene beyond the tourist traps


Experience Istanbul’s gastronomy scene beyond the tourist traps

Sample traditional street food, decadent baklava and Michelin-starred tasting menus at this Turkish culinary destination.



<p>Courtesy of Mikla</p>
<p> The view from the roof of Mikla in Istanbul” src=”https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/QbALdrc1OQIFSIPByvWWzQ–/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTEyNDI7aD04Mjg-/https://media.zenfs.com/en/aol_food_wine_articles_308 /3b380160d0fa196b389d7d878841487f”/></p>
<p>Courtesy of Mikla</p>
<p> The view from the roof of Mikla in Istanbul” src=”https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/QbALdrc1OQIFSIPByvWWzQ–/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTEyNDI7aD04Mjg-/https://media.zenfs.com/en/aol_food_wine_articles_308 /3b380160d0fa196b389d7d878841487f” class=”caas-img”/></p></div>
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Courtesy of Mikla

The view from the roof of Mikla in Istanbul

Most visitors to Istanbul spend their time wandering around the city’s various tourist attractions. Whole days are taken up with the Hagia Sophia, Grand Bazaar, Blue Mosque and the recently opened Galata Port being at the top of the must-see list. One offering that is largely overlooked, however, is Istanbul’s food scene.

In reality, the city offers a much broader, more eclectic mix of dishes and experiences to try. Long mornings can be spent tucking into decadent Turkish breakfast spreads, where fluffy simit bread is dipped in fresh jam and creamy cheese fondues. Afterwards, visitors can relax in fragrant cafes, where locals revive centuries-old cafe culture. Heartier meals await, too, including delicious street food dishes and seven-course tasting menus.

How to plan a visit to Istanbul around the local cuisine.



<p>Ozan Kose/AFP/Getty Images</p>
<p> Pierre Loti Café in Istanbul” src=”https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/3BLnjaGAI2qnzKKs6Ra6ug–/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTEyNDI7aD04Mjk-/https://media.zenfs.com/en/aol_food_wine_articles_308/305211 d8c4a445461519e7165cab13f5″ /></p>
<p>Ozan Kose/AFP/Getty Images</p>
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Ozan Kose/AFP/Getty Images

Pierre Loti Café in Istanbul

In Turkey, kahvalti (breakfast) is a decadent affair, with table-length spreads served. Simit forms the basis of this meal; the soft ring-shaped bread is torn and dipped in a variety of spreads. Jams typically include tangerine, apricot, fig and sour cherry. A slightly spicier concoction is also created by mixing sweet molasses with earthy tahini. There are also savory dishes, including salty olives, fragrant kaşar cheese and menemen, a rich mixture of tomatoes, peppers and eggs served in a cast-iron skillet.

Related: Everything you need to know about a complete Turkish breakfast

Extravagant breakfast buffets can be found in the Beşiktaş district along Çelebi Oğlu Street, which turns into a sort of outdoor dining hall in the early hours. A particular favorite among locals is Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu. The unassuming cafe is known for its muhlama, a rich fondue-like dish made with kolas cheese, butter and ground corn flour. For breakfast with a view, head to Pierre Loti, a spot overlooking the Golden Horn named after the famous French writer who used to work on the Eyüp Gondola.

Istanbul’s coffee culture began in the 16th century, when coffeehouses, or kıraathanes, opened throughout the city. The drink quickly gained popularity and the infamous Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent crowned it the “Black Pearl.” As cafes transformed into meeting places for intellectuals, diplomats and merchants, the drink and the institutions became part of Turkish culture.

Cafes still line the city’s sidewalks; locals often sit outside on plastic chairs, chatting while sipping small cups of coffee and tulip-shaped glasses of tea. Your best bet is to grab a table at the busiest spot nearest you. For those who like things a little less crowded, Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi in the Fatih district is a secluded courtyard spot that offers shisha and hot drinks. Coffee-making classes are also offered for those who want to learn more about the ritual and how to prepare the drink using a traditional cezve pot.

In Istanbul, it’s common to see locals rushing around and eating on the go. To cater to this lifestyle, the city has an abundance of “fast food” dishes sold at street food stalls. In the morning, you can find simit bread with sesame seeds at red-and-white striped stalls or on wooden tables outside bakeries. For a more substantial meal, head to Kadıköy Market on the Asian side of the city. Just inside the entrance is the tiny eatery Çarsi Balikçisi, famous for its balık-ekmek, a refreshing grilled fish sandwich. Lahmacun, a crispy flatbread with minced meat, onions, red peppers, parsley and lemon juice, can be found at Halil Lahmacun and Borsam Taş Fırın in Kadıköy.



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Momen Faiz/NurPhoto/Getty Images

Hafiz Mustafa in Istanbul

Turkey has a wealth of famous desserts to please even the most ardent sugar fan. Perhaps the most famous is lokum, or Turkish delight. These bite-sized, jelly-textured sweets are packaged in pretty boxes at Divan Brasserie Bebek’s in-house shop. The restaurant is also conveniently located opposite Mesur Bebek Badem Emesi, a dessert shop that has specialized in marzipan since 1904.

Another popular dessert is Turkish baklava, a rich pastry made of flaky pastry, chopped nuts and plenty of syrup. Various versions of this delicacy are available at Hafız Mustafa 1864, which now has several branches across the city. For a truly complete experience, visitors can sample the desserts at Şark Kahvesi in the 15th-century Grand Bazaar, where stone arches and an ornate facade exude traditional charm.

For visitors looking to treat themselves, Arkestra is the perfect choice. Housed in a 1960s villa in the Etiler district, the Michelin-starred restaurant was opened by chef-patron couple Cenk Debensason and Debora Ipekel, a former NTS radio presenter. The menu is inspired by French cuisine and local ingredients – think monkfish with saffron rouille and duck breast with spicy ginger chutney. Audiophile Ipekel has also created an eclectic atmosphere; the Listening Room, a cozy bar above the restaurant, is equipped with an extensive sound system and a vinyl collection for guests to enjoy.

Another notable spot is Mikla, located on a chic rooftop in the bohemian district of Karaköy. While it lacks the coziness and atmosphere of Arkestra, Mikla’s Anatolian-inspired menu features traditional regional dishes. The offering changes with the season, but classics include slow-cooked lamb fillet with spicy apple molasses and traditional mantı parcels with smoked buffalo yogurt.

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Read the original article on Food & Wine.

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