As the 2024 Olympics enter their final days, NBC Chicago’s Food Guy Steve Dolinsky has a recommendation for you if Paris is on your mind.
It’s hard enough to run an affordable restaurant in the city, but Bar Parisette in Logan Square tries to appeal to the neighborhood with a combination of typical bistro cuisine and simple prices.
“I also think our approach here is very different from other French restaurants that have opened in Chicago or even been in operation for many years,” said Matthew Sussman, owner of Bar Parisette.
For one thing, those plates of coppa, chorizo and salami are all made at their sister restaurant down the street, Table, Donkey and Stick. Here, velvety-smooth chicken liver mousse is made, along with the buttery brioche—the perfect pastry for spreading. The same goes for the beef tartare, which isn’t weighed down by egg yolk or mayo.
“Our version is a little fresher, especially in the summer, it works really well garnished with nasturtium leaves to give it some color and brightness,” Sussman said.
Mussels are mixed with shallots and garlic, steamed in their juices and then served on plates, along with twice-fried potatoes that are tender yet crispy. Traditional preparation for the halibut en papillote… “We use seasonal vegetables – a few baby carrots and summer squash – and season the halibut with a Café de Paris butter…”
The butter has a hint of French curry powder as a fragrance that is enjoyed at the table when you cut open the sealed parchment. And since this is a bistro, there is a very good pan-fried half chicken.
“We currently use chicken from Green Circle Farms, which is really delicious and juicy. A small side of sugar snap peas and radishes balances the richness of the crispy skin and jus,” Sussman said.
When it comes to wine, prices are not going up by two or three hundred percent. Instead…
“We essentially charge you retail price plus corkage. Some rare and sought-after wines, as well as some high value wines from producers we love,” he said.
To finish, there is a simple seasonal dessert.
“A kind of classic tarte au citron, with lemon, and we also use seasonal products. For example, we are currently using plums instead of blueberries.”
Sussman says you don’t have to commit to a full meal here. He wants to become a permanent fixture in the neighborhood.
“We are primarily a bistro and wine bar; we welcome people to just stop by for a snack or even just a drink,” he said.
There is also a happy hour on a few days of the week and the great thing about the menu is that there is something for everyone. Even a burger.
Here you can go:
Bar Parisette
2829 W. Armitage Ave.
312-955-0072
