The field pea hummus at the end of August satisfied my hunger for creativity. Photo by Phaedra Cook.
- HRW meals offered: Brunch, lunch and dinner
- Offers self parking? Yes
- Presented the HRW menu without being asked? NO
- Would you come back for a regular meal? Yes, especially for dinner
I wanted to visit the chef and restaurateur Chris Williams’ newest restaurant, End of August at The Ionlocated at 4201 Main in Midtown Houston, since I wrote about his opening. It was no exaggeration to call Late August “highly anticipated,” as it has been in the works for nearly three years. I have long admired what Williams has accomplished, not only at his original restaurant, Lucille’sbut also as a philanthropist with his Lucille’s Charity of 1913.
I arrived for a somewhat late lunch, famished after landing at Hobby Airport. It had been a bad day so far, so I was looking for some cheering up and hoping my fortunes would change for the afternoon and evening. The restaurant was smaller than I expected — at a quick, rough estimate, it seems the dining room seats about 40 and the patio maybe 10 — but it’s elegant without being over the top. I admired the deep-hued teal velvet banquettes and emerald green chairs, tastefully accented with earthy gold and terra cotta tones.
At the end of August, the overall menu is not particularly large, so lunch options during Houston Restaurant Weeks are limited to three options each for appetizers and main courses.
The choice of the first course was difficult and fell between the gumbo And Field pea hummus. Since I was pretty hungry and felt like I needed protein, I opted for hummus – and I’m very glad I did. There’s a complex fearlessness to the dish. It has the southern influence I expect from Williams, since hummus is made with field peas, but then he added the unexpected ingredients of chorizo, crunchy pumpkin seeds, and chapulines. The flatbread is slightly crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, so it’s best to spoon the hummus onto the bread rather than trying to dip it.
I found the main course selection of a vegetarian chili rellenoA Smash Burger And crispy octopus less tempting. I was craving meat and don’t order octopus (although I will eat it if someone puts one in front of me or a companion offers a bite), so my only option was the Smash Burger. I would have appreciated at least another choice. (You can avoid this problem by visiting Late August for dinner rather than lunch when it four main courses to choose from.)
The patty was thicker than expected and didn’t have the typical frilly texture of a deep-fried smashburger, but it was flavorful and good quality, and the bun was perfectly toasted on top and bottom. Grilled panela was an interesting choice for the cheese, as it added a taut texture rather than melting into the patty. The crisp, fresh tomatoes and lettuce, as well as the morita aioli and pickled onions, were my favorite aspects of the well-made, if not remarkable, burger. I don’t know if the seasoned fries were made in-house, but regardless, they were excellent.
I ordered an additional page — the potato salad — and was disappointed when my server told me it was unavailable. However, she suggested Red rice and beanswhich also piqued my interest. It was a wise recommendation. The rice gets its red color from tomato paste according to my waiter, but I think I also tasted something like a spice mix from dried red peppers. The beans also had a nice jalapeño kick.
The HRW menu itself was perfectly fine and the field pea hummus alone was worth the price of admission. Unfortunately The Mansa Musa The cocktail I ordered to go with it was one of the worst cocktails I’ve had in a while. It’s supposed to be made with bourbon, house-made Musa syrup flavored with star anise and cinnamon, and a blend of citrus juices. I’m not sure what went wrong—maybe double syrup, juice, and no bourbon??—but it was so cloyingly sweet it was undrinkable. I couldn’t taste the bourbon or the syrup’s promised baking spice flavors, and it was oddly pale for a drink made with brown liquor. I took two sips of the $13 drink (the second just to make sure it was really that awful) and left the rest untouched. For people on a budget, spending $13 on something they can’t drink is a big deal.
The young lady who served me was very nice (in fact, every member of staff was warm and friendly) but never mentioned the barely touched drink that was sitting on the table, sweating. It was only when I left that a gentleman who came to clear the table noticed. “You didn’t like the drink, did you?” I replied, “No, it’s way too sweet for me, but maybe someone else will.” I actually doubted that. Next time I visit, I’ll opt for wine.
Speaking of wine, there was apparently cocktail, Wine And non-alcoholic cocktail Pairing options for an additional charge, but no one mentioned them. While researching this story, I happened to notice a note under Late August’s lunch menu on the Houston Restaurant Weeks website.
Regardless of the drinks mishap, I hope to return to Late August for dinner one day. The menu may be modest in size, but it’s brimming with tantalizing potential.
Next: HRW 2024 dinner at Riel
Phaedra Cook has been writing about Houston’s restaurant and bar scene since 2010. She was a regular contributor to My table Magazine (now closed) and was the leading restaurant critic for the Houston Press Cook worked at the magazine for two years and was eventually promoted to food editor. In November 2016, Cook founded the Houston Food Finder and has served as its editor and publisher ever since.
