Last year, when I spoke with filmmaker Mark Kurlyandchik after he won a James Beard Media Award for the documentary Cold water kitchenI asked how the former Hour Detroit Intern, later editor-in-chief and Detroit Free Press food critic began to write about food. His answer was one of the oldest in the book: You write what you know.
This year’s Best New Restaurants column (our first in two years) was written by four talented food writers from different backgrounds and experiences. I thought it would be fun to ask them the same question as Mark, plus a few other food-related questions that have been on my mind.
How did you get into writing about food?
Dorothy Hernandez: When I was an editor at The Detroit NewsI showed an interest in food and was given the opportunity to blog about my cooking adventures in the kitchen. Since then, wherever I worked, I have volunteered to write about food in addition to my editorial duties.
Danny Palumbo: I worked as a kitchen assistant for many years and during my studies I was a huge fan of authors like Anthony Bourdain and Gabrielle Hamilton. At some point I decided to combine my passion for good food and good writing in Los Angeles, where Jonathan Gold’s influence was everywhere.
Michelle Kobernick: As a trained chef, it was always my dream to one day write about food and restaurants. A few years ago, I earned a master’s degree in food journalism and photography from the University of South Florida. I was first published as an undergraduate, which was very encouraging. Since then, I’ve been writing for several Detroit-based publications and I’m really enjoying it.
Jack Thomas: I have a hard news ethos, but eventually got into writing about food at Hour Detroit. I have worked in restaurants on and off since I was 15. It is an industry that I still have a lot of respect for. In some ways, the same things attract me to journalism – I need constant deadlines, fast pace, a lot of effort and pressure to perform.
In every restaurant review, we look for exceptional food, ambience and service. Are they all the same?
JT: For me, the food always comes first – but that doesn’t mean that service and ambience aren’t important. What I really like is artistry – when a chef, sommelier, waiter, etc. is passionate about what they do and you’re lucky enough to experience that as a guest. I’m very forgiving in every way; that’s why we (the food writers) try to go there at least a couple of times before we write about a place.
What was the best menu or dish you had at one of our best new restaurants this year?
MK: The creations of Coeur’s pastry chef Carla Spicuzzi. They are creative and expertly prepared (and) bring back delicious childhood memories, only better than you remember them.
As a restaurant critic, how do you deal with the evaluation of dishes that you don’t like or can’t eat?
DH: I hate beets and goat cheese, and of course they are often prepared together. I taste it and see how the dish is put together and how the flavors work together, like any other dish, because even if I can’t stand the taste, I can appreciate a well-prepared dish. But I always have other people around to taste these dishes and form an opinion.
Danny, you’re new to Detroit. What makes Detroit’s food scene different from other cities?
DP: It has some of the best Middle Eastern food in the country, but also the connection between restaurants and diners is really strong here. … Find the great restaurants, visit them, visit them again and become a regular. They deserve your support.
To find out what these writers think about the 17 spots on our list of best new restaurants, check out our lists of best new restaurants and best new casual spots.
Bon appetit!
This story originally appeared in the August 2024 issue of Hour Detroit magazine. To read more, pick up a copy of Hour Detroit at a local retail store. Our digital edition will be available on August 6th.
