The Midnight Dinners is a regular collaboration between KQED food editor Luke Tsai and graphic novel author Thien Pham. Follow them each week as they explore the hot pot restaurants, taco stands and 24-hour casino buffets that make up the Bay Area’s after-hours dining scene.

In our quest to discover the Bay Area’s sweetest and most sacred nightspots, we can’t forget the humble doughnut shop. These fried pastry shops are temples for the sweet tooth, havens for night owls and scratch-off addicts, and often the only grocery store for several miles open past midnight.

Located in a quiet strip mall in Palo Alto, SH Hawaiian BBQ & Donuts isn’t a colorful, bustling hangout like Bob’s. (It was almost completely empty when we visited on a recent Friday night.) It doesn’t have the surreal weirdness of a Silver Crest Donut Shop (RIP). It’s not open 24 hours. It doesn’t even sell scratch-off tickets.

But the main goal of this hybrid donut shop/Hawaiian barbecue is to satisfy anyone with late-night cravings—not just with donuts, but also noodle soups, rice bowls, and full Hawaiian plate meals.

The restaurant falls into roughly the same category as the kind of Cambodian-owned doughnut shops that sell lemongrass-scented meat skewers and sticky-sweet chicken wings on the side—except the menu of savory dishes is even broader and more eclectic. As its name suggests, the shop is best known for Hawaiian barbecue, but like other Bay Area restaurants of its kind, it rounds out its menu with a wide variety of takeout Hawaiian and Chinese-American classics. Of course, there’s Spam musubi, along with other comfort food favorites like loco moco and kalua pork. You can order a plate of Hawaiian-Japanese beef curry, a bowl of wonton soup, and about a half-dozen different variations of saimin (Hawaii’s homemade, ramen-like noodle soup).