I first connected with Emil David, owner of Perso at 741 E. Oak St., in 2021. We chatted about Hot Buns, his food truck business specializing in bao buns, which got its nickname from Sir Mix-a-Lot’s “Baby Got Back.”
Since then, David has been pretty busy. He opened and closed his ice cream parlor Sugar Room, opened Roman-style pizzeria Square Cut, renamed Square Cut Perso, which he describes as a neighborhood restaurant that uses European techniques to showcase seasonal dishes. He also just opened a new speakeasy in the garden.
Here you can find out everything you need to know about Perso and David’s new concept in his backyard.
Guests can still eat pizza at Perso – but there is more
David says he and his team were limited in what they could do at Square Cut. Because it was a Roman-style pizzeria, the menu was full of Italian dishes made with Italian ingredients.
“When we started,” he said, “it was a little more low-key, (and we had) a little more intimate approach. But now our guests have given us their full trust, (so) we have the freedom to use flavors and ingredients that our guests enjoy.”
He adds that most of the dishes at Perso are unique, seasonal fare prepared using European techniques. Guests will still find pizza and charcuterie on the menu, but additional offerings include everything from seared octopus with beef tongue, arugula aioli and peperonata to a 16-ounce, 30-day-aged ribeye steak served with buttery smashed potatoes, house-made steak sauce and garlic-herb sauce.
For those with a sweet tooth, there are also several desserts available, including an upside-down tiramisu with coffee crème anglaise and a bourbon crème brûlée.
Certain menu items are inspired by Asian flavors
Hailing from Pampanga, considered the culinary capital of the Philippines, David often draws inspiration from the flavors he grew up with.
“In Asia, we have been fermenting for centuries,” he said. “It’s an ancient technique that is widespread in Asia, but is also used in European cuisine. Even sausages undergo a fermentation process.”
He adds that the Perso kitchen has been working a lot with fermentation lately. For the summer menu, both fish dishes are marinated; one in miso and the other in vinegar and garlic.
The Berkshire pork chop, served with corn chowder, corn kernels and homemade crème fraîche, was inspired by a dish that David’s grandmother always made: beef tongue stew with corn and mushrooms.
“The beef tongue is good and (with) the simplicity of the corn and mushrooms, it’s so comforting,” he said.
Order classic favorites or try the cod
Some year-round staples, such as charcuterie, cast iron baked pasta and ribeye steak, are particularly popular with guests. But another dish that’s becoming increasingly popular is the cod, served with bok choy, patty pan squash and pickled strawberries. David said he chose black cod because it’s milky and a little sweet.
“And the texture is great,” he added. “We marinate it with miso, sugar and mirin to give it an interesting flavor.”
What makes the dish truly unique is the sauce David makes from pickled strawberries. The normally sweet fruit, he explained, turns sour when he prepares a jar full of it and lets it sit for several weeks.
“We play with flavors and transform them into something different to keep it interesting for guests,” he said. “At the same time, we also continue to educate ourselves.”
Discover new dishes at the Chef’s Table
For guests who are feeling particularly adventurous, David offers a daily Chef’s Table option. Available as an experience for two or more people with a full table, the $55 “surprise menu” includes an appetizer, main course and dessert—and David says there are almost always leftovers.
“That’s kind of a Filipino amount of food,” he said with a laugh, explaining that traditional Filipino festivals usually feature a seemingly endless supply of food. “I would say 95% of the time, people go home with to-go boxes.”
If you’re not sure what’s for dinner, Perso also offers a three-course prix fixe menu Sunday through Thursday. The menu changes about six times a year, with specials always listed on the restaurant’s website. The menu costs $29 per person, and a portion of the proceeds are donated to Blessings in a Backpack, a nonprofit that helps feed children in the community who are food insecure.
Go to the garden speakeasy behind Perso
David’s latest project is the newly opened garden speakeasy at the rear of the Perso building. The new concept, which can only be reached via the restaurant, was developed as a happy hour solution.
“We thought about having a happy hour (at Perso),” David explained, “but we barely have 50 seats. … We (also) thought it might be confusing from a consumer perspective.”
The new spot, named Segreto – the Italian word for “secret” – offers ample outdoor seating in a garden setting. David uses the space to grow a variety of vegetables, herbs and edible flowers that are used in both Perso and Segreto dishes.
Although physically connected to Perso, the drop-in bar offers its own food and cocktail menu. Pizzas from Perso’s menu are now part of Segreto’s offering, in addition to a selection of sandwiches and other snacks.
“It’s much more accessible,” David said, “and it has its own identity.”
Know of a restaurant that would be a great feature? Email writer Lennie Omalza at [email protected] or lifestyle editor Kathryn Gregory at [email protected].
WHAT: This is a local neighborhood restaurant that uses European techniques to showcase seasonal dishes.
WHERE: 741 E. Oak St.
SERVICES: Indoor dining and outdoor seating; 5pm-9pm, Sunday through Thursday; 5pm-10pm, Friday and Saturday
CONTACT: 502-290-5721, persorestaurant.com
