Interior view of Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels in Brunswick. Photo by Aimsel Ponti

I never get tired of egg and cheese sandwiches and am open to them in many different variations. I am happy with an English muffin, croissant or bagel.

But two Fridays ago, my egg and cheese sandwich world was turned upside down when I ordered one with a pork bun on a salt-and-pepper bagel at Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels in Brunswick.

The only time I’ve ever had pork roll was in a New Jersey diner in the early ’90s. It’s a specialty in the Garden State and, as far as I’m concerned, more than welcome in the Pine Tree State. Pork roll is in the ham family. Think of it as the Jersey version of Canadian bacon.

I have to quote Fried Green Tomatoes when I say “the secret is in the sauce.” In this case, it’s something called bodega sauce, which is made of mayo, ketchup, and hot sauce. I can’t believe I didn’t know about this divine condiment for so long.

When I arrived at Fort Andross, I walked through a maze of hallways. It was like Walt Disney World, where you think there’s no line at Space Mountain until you actually get there. Suddenly, there were about 10 people in front of me and the takeout bags were lined up like soldiers. I took that as a good sign, because who wants to stand in line for a mediocre bagel?

When it was my turn to order, I opted for a salt and pepper bagel, the special flavor of the day.

Bagel sandwich with eggs, cheese and pork bun from Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels in Brunswick. Photo by Aimsel Ponti

An egg and cheese meal with two fried eggs and American cheese costs $9. I also had a pork bun (bacon was the other meat option) for $3.

Then I waited while the staff bustled around making fancy coffee drinks, selling bagels and baked goods, and keeping the line moving. This was a well-run, well-staffed establishment.

A few minutes later, it was dinner time, so I grabbed a seat by a huge window in the palatial space occupied by Nomad Pizza in the evenings. Dutchman’s opened as a pop-up in 2022 and, thankfully, is here to stay.

My sandwich posed for the obligatory photos and then I took the first bite.

Two things struck me simultaneously: the crispy outside of the bagel and the flavor of the bodega sauce. Both were masterclasses in perfection. The bagel was impeccably chewy on the inside and by the time I finished eating it, I knew no trip anywhere near the mid-coast would be complete without a stop at Dutchman’s.

Egg and cheese sandwich with pork bun, $12, Dutchman’s Wood-Fired Bagels, 14 Maine St. (Fort Andross), Brunswick. dutchmans.me

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