Photos by John Anderson
Back in the Pleistocene, when I was a student at UT-Austin, I lived on $0.59 bean and cheese burritos from Taco Bell (who remembers the “59-79-99” jingle?) and any other cheap food I could get my hands on to fund my mediocre academic performance and Pulitzer-worthy lounging. Those were also the days of Mad Dog & Beans, Les Amis, the Saigon Eggroll stands, and Captain Quackenbush’s, where hungry students could get an extremely cheap meal with some vibe between classes and late into the evening.
Those days and those restaurants are long gone, their storefronts torn down and replaced by condos, Starbucks, and fast-food chains selling run-of-the-mill sandwiches, smoothies, and lattes. I’m not one to moan that “Austin was better in the ’90s” (it was), but I have to say that today’s students don’t have it nearly as good as us old Gen-X farts when it comes to cheap, local food a stone’s throw from their biology class.
But JewBoy Cantina, the fourth concept in Mo Pittle’s JewBoy empire, changes that story. It brings a uniquely Austin concept to an iconic Austin location – the popular Hole in the Wall – at a price point that’s affordable for college students.
Like its siblings, JewBoy Cantina offers counter service and a smallish menu that favors burritos and snacks. Queso and guacamole make good appetizers, the latter being a bit thicker than your usual dip, so eat it before it gets cold and really thick.
The Gringo Nachos (loaded fries) are one of the most expensive menu items at $12 (plus $7 for carne asada), but are perfect for sharing with 2-3 people. If I were to order them again, I would order them without the spicy ranch, which tastes too much like hatch chili for my taste, and ask for more queso. Topped with carne asada, they are a very filling snack or meal and are just plain fun to eat.
The fourth concept in Mo Pittle’s JewBoy empire, JewBoy Cantina brings a uniquely Austin concept to an iconic Austin location.
The burritos are the centerpiece of JewBoy Cantina’s menu, with nine options to choose from. They include the famous bean and cheese burrito, which has turned out to be a surprise hit on the JewBoy Burgers menu (and is only $4 here). These burritos are slim but filling, filled with a variety of proteins, veggies, and plenty of shredded American cheese. We tried both the carne asada (a protein that Pittle does very well) and the chicken fajita, slightly preferring the beef.
I loved both the flautas and the little tacos. For the best value, go for the flautas, a stack of three rolled corn tortillas filled with smoked brisket, chicken or potatoes, topped with shredded lettuce and queso fresco, then drizzled with crema. The pile of shredded lettuce is a great counterpoint to the brisket and fried tortilla. I just loved my little tacos, filled with potatoes à la Mexicana, little crispy parcels, topped with shredded lettuce and American cheese. They were fresh and pretty and perfect for a small appetite.
It wouldn’t be a JewBoy restaurant if there weren’t burgers on the menu. Here, you can choose between the Gringo Sliders, topped with American cheese, pickles and dirt, and the Vato, a spicier option with pepper jack, grilled jalapeños and spicy Hatch Ranch. My son, the burger fan, chose the Gringo Sliders, two little smashers served on cute little grilled buns and with a side of fries. Don’t let the size of the sliders fool you, though: I don’t think I could eat more than one at a time.
I have two minor gripes about the JewBoy Cantina. First, I really missed something small and sweet to finish off my meal. Yes, there are chocolate chip cookies from the Bearded Baking Company, but the ones we tried were stale and dry. The second gripe is that if you don’t want cheap canned beer, you have to go to the bar at Hole in the Wall to get a draft beer or cocktail. These aren’t deal breakers, of course. Just “nice to have” phrases.
JewBoy Cantina is just the right place at just the right price. It’s across the street from campus and students can get a cheap, filling meal that doesn’t come from some commercial kitchen. It’s just the thing if you’re catching a show at Hole in the Wall or Cactus Cafe and want a snack beforehand or a quick and easy dinner. I don’t know if it’s necessarily a must-visit restaurant, but it’s exactly what this place needs.
JewBoy Cantina
2513 San Antonio St.
jewboycantina.com
