“What. Is. Bohemia?“

A smartly dressed crowd gathered in the Pacific Ballroom of the La Playa Hotel in Carmel sang that refrain in unison, led by an ensemble of actors from the IAMA Theatre Company last winter. Among the more than 250 attendees gathered this festive weekend for the grand reopening of the historic venue were Lewis Pullman, Patrick J. Adams, actor Guillermo Diaz and author/podcaster Evan Ross Katz. scandalKatie Lowes and The bear And I have neverAdam Shapiro beamed from the audience as they watched fellow actors from the theater they co-founded in Atwater Village perform the prologue to The last bohemiana one-day, site-specific immersive theatre piece directed by Eli Gonda and commissioned by hotelier John Grossman of Marc & Rose Hospitality.

Playwright Christian Durso’s story – set in 1907 and inspired by Carmel’s unorthodox creative heritage – unfolded throughout the property. Chef and food critic Andy Baraghani was also there, having prepared a locally sourced dinner the night before for this exuberant gathering of guests from many disciplines and backgrounds.

Clint Eastwood is often associated with the hamlet at the southern end of the Monterey Peninsula. But over a century ago, it was also a refuge and community for such personalities as Robinson Jeffers, Jack London, Edward Weston, Sinclair Lewis and the painter Chris Jorgensen. It was Jorgensen who built the winter house in 1905 that later became the La Playa Hotel for his wife, the San Francisco chocolate heiress Angela Ghirardelli.

Elements of this early bohemian culture can still be felt in the winding streets of the 4-acre village of Carmel-by-the-Sea. Fairytale-like buildings and a conspicuous lack of numerical addresses add to the village’s quirky charm. Homes are identified not by conventional addresses but by descriptive names and geographic locations, so residents pick up their mail at the downtown post office (and delivery can be a challenge).

Standout real estate transactions in Carmel point to renewed attention. In 2022, Brad Pitt added a $40 million investment to his portfolio: Seward, the stone-clad 1918 D.L. James House designed by architect Charles Sumner Greene, one of the architects responsible for the Gamble House in Pasadena. The 1951 Butterfly House, with chic interiors by Jamie Bush, sold for $29 million in 2023; and Monegasque businessman Patrice Pastor snapped up Frank Lloyd Wright’s compact but dramatic Mrs. Clinton Walker House for $22 million, adding a particularly rare gem to his growing crown of real estate holdings in Carmel (an overall development that’s generating a stir locally).

Casual yet elegant restaurants, hotels and boutiques are adding to Carmel’s offerings and gradually enhancing the reputation of this long-time destination as a coveted getaway destination for Hollywood visitors.

A few miles north, snagging a tee time at Pebble Beach is still a win-win for avid golfers like Barack Obama, Bill Murray and Justin Timberlake. Monterey Car Week, which includes the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance, draws wealthy visitors and celebrities every August. (Plus, much of this scenery will look familiar.) Big little lies Viewers.)

In April, Taylor Swift, Travis Kelce, Bradley Cooper and Gigi Hadid met in Carmel, dined together at Bistro La Bicyclette and enjoyed the rugged coastline in honor of Hadid’s birthday.

Where to stay

“Carmel has a relaxed sense of luxury, style and hospitality that feels equally comfortable and understated, which we love,” says Palisociety founder Avi Brosh The Hollywood Reporter. He and his wife, Kirsten, have transformed two previously modest properties a few blocks apart under their Le Petit Pali brand. The lobby areas and 24 rooms at Le Petit Pali’s downtown location on 8th Avenue (Junipero St. and Eighth Avenue, starting at $395 per night) and the 34 guest rooms at Le Petit Pali on Ocean Avenue (Junipero St. and Ocean Ave.) are now bathed in Palisociety’s signature refreshingly bright and whimsical decor, which doesn’t shy away from the skillful use of bold stripes and botanical prints.

At La Playa Hotel (nightly rates from $450), Brooklyn-based design firm Post Company incorporated moody, intimate, retro-inspired elements into the Spanish Colonial-style buildings that contrast with the stunning ocean views. All 75 guest rooms and suites have been completely renovated, featuring elaborate, individually designed, freestanding bars in an Art Deco style, while popular local hangout Bud’s has been modernized with respect and a light touch.

Nestled in the residential Carmel Point area, Villa Mara (2408 Bay View Ave., nightly rates from $825) exudes a quietly luxurious vibe, reinforcing the impression that Carmel-by-the-Sea is probably one of the places with the highest fireplace-to-resident ratios in the country. The lobby and Jesena’s Bar are an exercise in layered textures, subtle patterns and understated elegance, with bespoke details from the leather-wrapped stair railings to the furnishings—all with a wabi-sabi element that avoids stuffiness.

Relais & Châteaux member L’Auberge Carmel (Monte Verde on Seventh Street, rates from $590) is an Old World touch in the city, grouped around a charming courtyard.

The Stillwell Hotel (San Carlos Street at Fifth Avenue, rates from $379) opened this summer with 42 fresh, modern guest rooms in the heart of downtown.

The Carmel Beach Hotel (San Antonio Avenue at 13th Street, prices from $425) has earthy interiors and is just steps from the oceanfront Scenic Road. The extensive spa and wellness program blends harmoniously into the enchanting garden landscape.

Luxury resorts also dot the hills of Carmel Valley. Romantic and family-friendly properties include the 850-acre, 93-room, remodeled The Quail (8205 Valley Greens Dr., nightly rates from $495), operated by Peninsula Hotels, which also features an 18-hole, par-3 championship golf course and the redesigned Covey Grill.

The activity-packed, all-suite Carmel Valley Ranch (1 Old Ranch Road, peak season rates from $525) appeals to multiple generations, while the scenic vineyards of Bernardus Lodge & Spa (415 W. Carmel Valley Rd., rates from $465) and Lucia Restaurant reflect the region’s winemaking heritage. Bernardus Winery is just two miles away.

Where to eat

“The city’s always stunning natural landscape is enlivened by outstanding new culinary talent as well as world-class design and cultural events and gatherings that attract a very interesting, fresh and unexpected audience to the city and indulge them in a new and special way,” notes Avi Brosh.

This movement is palpable at Anthony and Alyssa Carnazzo’s minimalist Stationæry (San Carlos Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues), where the perfectly crispy potato pancake with fromage blanc, prosciutto and delicata squash often sells out before brunch ends. Culinary ambitions are also being pursued at destination-worthy hotels.

Chef Justin Cogley serves sumptuous tasting menus at L’Auberge’s renowned Aubergine restaurant, and Michael Chang showcases Monterey Bay seafood and other prized ingredients at Foray at the Stillwell Hotel.

Chez Noir places a strong emphasis on local, and is Carmel-by-the-Sea’s other Michelin-starred restaurant, along with Aubergine. The kitchen team, Jonny and Monique Black, a husband-and-wife team, were also nominated for best new restaurant by the James Beard Foundation this year. The two alumni of San Francisco’s Quince restaurant and Big Sur’s Post Ranch Inn initially cooked pop-up meals at Stationæry, where the Carnazzos “gave us hope that Carmel could support our dream,” says Monique Black. Now the ever-changing multi-course prix fixe menu ($150 per person) features seasonal California ingredients like black cod from Santa Cruz and buttermilk-flavored green tomato salad from Borba Family Farms. “We wouldn’t be doing what we are today without the support of our neighbors and farmers,” she adds.

Where can you shop?

Carmel-by-the-Sea is a dream for avid browsers and shoppers who value independent brick-and-mortar retail.

In this relaxed, more leisurely atmosphere, store employees easily strike up friendly conversations with customers. Hiroki Nakamura, Monterey Car Week enthusiast and founder of cult clothing and lifestyle brand Visvim (San Carlos Street near Sixth Avenue), has opened a Carmel location, complete with covetable vintage wood furniture by George Nakashima, collectible hi-fi equipment, handcrafted display cases and a coffee bar. In addition to Stationæry, the collection of textiles and accessories with a focus on Japanese traditions offered at Bee Bark & ​​Moss (San Carlos Square, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues) is the project of Manhattan-born former fashion industry veteran Minori Shironishi and her husband Philip Rodrigue.

Novice dinner party hosts who appreciate hemstitching, custom-embroidered napkins and French linen tablecloths will admire the unmatched selection at Jan De Luz Linens (Dolores Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues). Neighboring home furnishings stores/interior design studios Hart Habitats and Shoshin (San Carlos Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues) are full of inviting colors, patterns and tempting wares. An impeccable selection of Nordic design classics by artists such as Finn Juhl and Hans Wegner is offered by Fjørn Scandinavian in the shops of the Pine Inn Hotel (Ocean Avenue and Lincoln Street).

Sunny, hip Golden State vibes are the order of the day at Somewhere in Carmel (San Carlos between Ocean and Seventh Avenues), thanks to this boutique’s selection of casual wear and gift items. The geodesic dome, Zen vibe, and spiritual books at Pilgrim’s Way Books and Secret Garden (Dolores Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues) are an authentic throwback to a certain California era. Sweaters at Tejido Collective (Mission Street between Fifth and Sixth Avenues) support artisanal microbusinesses in Peru and are perfect for wrapping up against the chilly coastal fog.